St Paul

Yesterday we went to First Vespers of the Feast of Sts Peter and Paul, held at St Paul outside the Walls. This celebration opened the Year of St Paul. It was presided over by the Pope, along with the new Orthodox Patriarch of Jerusalem, Bartholomew I, and the Archbishop of Canterbury, Rowen Williams, had a significant role. Given the procession in I would think there were quite a number of other church leaders. It certainly was an ecumenical event.
Vespers was very good but ‘papal circus’ appalling, more on that later. St Paul’s holds 10,000 people seated and the place was well and truly full. We were each given a booklet and the service was sung between cantors, choir and people. The book gave the music for the people so we could truly sing. It was in Latin and Italian, with prayers of intercession spoken in other languages. The reading, the opening of Romans, was read by the Patriarch in Greek. Given the congregation, the singing was quite good. There was an interesting way of chanting psalms and canticles, alternating Gregorian chant and polyphony between the verses. It was very well sung. The polyphony very elaborate. Personally I didn’t like the alteration but that’s just me. I could see how it was one way to have the people sing and have extraordinary religious song as well. So, for that, it worked very well. Of course we couldn’t understand the Pope’s homily or the Patriarch’s address as both were done in Italian. Italian has really replaced Latin as the working language of the church here. Mmmm, interesting implications.
It was a appallingly hot day. We had to wait outside for well over an hour, thank God, under a row of shady trees (and there aren’t too many shade trees in Rome). A lane of traffic lined with these trees had been closed for the event. The organization was very good. We have to get tickets beforehand, barriers were all in place, the people were told the time we were to be let in. The police, etc were very much in force, sniffer dogs doing the rounds beforehand, a helicopter overhead, (though it couldn’t be heard in the church). And, of course, ambulances waiting. I didn’t see it but I wouldn’t be surprised if they were used. The seating in the church (as at St Peter’s) is so organized that if there was a medical emergency, the ambulance people could get in fairly quickly – amazing for Italy. I was told that at the Papal Mass today, which is about 2 ½ hours long, bottles of cold water will probably be handed out to the people as they come in. Preventative treatment.
Aside on medical emergencies - We were present when a man had a severe fit at the Vatican Museums and it took no more than seven minutes for a doctor and ambulance services to arrive. Later I was present when a woman seemed to have a heart attack in a shop near the Vatican but in Italy and well over 20 minutes later there was no sign of the ambulance.
Now to the Papal circus. I really wonder why some people came to Vespers. We were there to worship God, not the Pope. During the litany, which was sung for the entrance, there were excessive scenes of adulations for the Pope while the service was ignored. I never thought I would hear ululating in church, and that for a human person. As at the Papal audience, the ones who indulged in this behaviour were the ones who chatted not only though the prayers but also in the Pope’s homily. At the audience, one priest who began a chant “Viva La Papa” when the Pope arrived spent the time of the Pope’s homily making mobile calls to what sounded like his friends. I do get the impression, that this pope is trying to wind done some of the excessive behaviour. Officials, quietly but firmly moved through the congregation, getting people off their chairs etc.
Enough for now. I still hope to write up Monte Cassino but I must tell you about the trip to the seaside. It was wonderful, wonderful. Most of the people on the program rarely see the sea and two, before this time, had NEVER seen the sea, one sister was 70 years old. So the two hours we had a Sperlonga were so full emotionally, that the heat and the climb of 157 steps just added to the joy.

Florence

Ah Florence. The last weekend has underscored for me that less is more. I went to the Uffizi, the art gallery, and was just overwhelmed. By the time I got to the room with the altar pieces I couldn’t concentrate on ‘the art’ and my thoughts moved laterally. Here were Mary and the saints standing around with eyes cast down, were they serene or were they bored, tired of these people coming through the stare at them. What is the difference between boredom and serenity? So many pictures of the same thing in the same room, it just didn’t make sense to me.

By the time I left I was so glad I had booked to go to only one gallery. The next day I went to Mass at the Badia, where the Community of Jerusalem, a new monastic community have their monastery in the centre of the city. It is a women’s and men’s community – living separately but coming together for prayer. They were exceptionally musical. Except for the readings, everything was completely sung, in a lovely part chant, which the rest of the congregation joined in.

That evening I went to Vespers at the Cathedral. It was wonderful. Again it was sung, choir to choir, between the priests of the Cathedral and the congregation, obviously local people of various ages. There was a schola to support us, and we were led by an organist on one of the smaller pipe organs. AND on the walls in front of us were two altar pieces with Mary and the saints. There they were, joining in with us. The height the pictures were placed, revealed them as part of this congregation of worshippers. And no, with the downcast eyes, they were not bored, they were following their own liturgy books. Saints, priests, people, schola, we formed one whole in the presence of God. Even though our singing was not good, the service moved me deeply and the singing of the Salve, with all of us facing a glorious stained glass window of Mary, left me in tears. So I decided to stay on the evening Mass and had another experience of how much this religious art - music, painting, architecture makes sense. Its richness lies not in the gallery but in the worship of the liturgy.
Which comes back to the ‘less is more’. I found the day at Sacre Speco, taking time to look and pray at the frescoes there more artistically satisfying than the Uffizi. We had time, space, quiet and the paintings had the chance to open up and speak to us.
Next day, I went to Mass at the Baptistery and then afterwards had to place to myself, with four women praying, to look at the mosaics.

Ah.Ah Florence in Summer – it makes Rome seem like the serene city! Ah the Uffizi, one of the great art galleries of the world. If the Florentines really appreciated it, they should had over the running of it to the Germans or the Americans. The ticketing system was bad enough. Paying to book a ticket. Standing in the wrong line because of the bad instructions, working out the mistake in time, going to another line to be told to come back at a different time, waiting to go inside to wait in another line, to get the ticket to cross the courtyard to wait in another line to go inside to wait in another line and finally to get in. And that was on the prebooked ticket. If you hadn’t booked the wait was longer. Inside the temp/humidity controls were not working – I’m not thinking of the people but the artworks, the guards were more interested in socialising and I was expecting to find a cluster together smoking. The hoards of people and this was supposedly the quiet time of the day. Why are all those young people there, hoards of school and college groups, it wasn’t for the art. Enough, enough, the complaints have surely been said before by thousands. In short, if you want to see the art of the Uffizi, go in winter.

On Thursday, we went to Subiaco, which is the place where St Benedict began his monastic life and had his first monasteries. This is about 100 miles south of Rome, again in the midst of mountains. The cold wet weather made the trip and the walks there very atmospheric - and also made us cold. There are two monasteries. The top one Sacre Speco the sacred site contains the cave in which Benedict lived for three years. Around it is built the most extraordinary structure. A whole monastery, clinging to the mountainside. In one cloister is a statue of St Benedict with his had thrown up towards the rocks, telling them to leave his monks alone - a necessary call as earthquakes. strong earthquakes, are a feature of life in this part of Italy.
Around the cave is a series of small churches and chapels piled one on top of the other, or rather interlocking each other. I counted about 7 levels that these rooms were across. Ah the calves of my legs after a day viewing the frescoes that cover every place on walls and ceilings. - of the lives of the saints, especially Benedict - and scenes from the Bible. In one 'loft' chapel is a almost full size frescoe of St Francis of Assisi, done in his lifetime - a sign of how highly he was venerated in his own day. Remember that the walls and ceilings in many places are the mountains itself and the pictures take into account the uneven, even rolling, places formed of the mountian itself.
In the middle of the day we had a couple of hours for silent prayer and I prayed especially for my own community and for all the Benedictines of Australia.
After 3 pm we went down the mountain to San Scholastica, another monastery, larger, where we were to have a guided tour. Before that though, we knocked on the wrong door, and the marvellous Marcia, our fearless leader, talked a monk into giving us access to the library/archive dsiplay (I think he hesitated because we were coming out of the rain) The library that had been built up at San Scholastica was sacked twice, first by the Sarcens and then by Napoleon's troops. In spite of that they have built up an impressive number of ancient manuscripts. Also on display was the first book printed in Italy - printed at that monstery, which had the first printing press. In fact when Gutenberg's men came to Subicao, they we so impressed with the script that the monks used in the Scriptorium that they used that for their type font. Mary Bevis, I thought of you when in this room.
Then we had the tour of the monastery proper. We had booked an English tour for ourselves and along with our group had collected two Tutzing sisters, German and Korean, and a German couple - friends of theirs, then up the mountain we found monk of St John Collegeville and invited him to join our group. Then when our tour began, all these others, who couldn't get an Italian tour joined out group. IT was like the United Nations. I think we ended up with about 55 people. I worked out we had some from every continent except Antartica and South AMerica and the later could have been there.
The tour was excellent. One feature of Italian tours is that the guide will always tell you who the artist was of a particular work. This is so important to them. The artist deserves to be acknowledged. YEs!! YEs!!

Yesterday we went to the Wednesday audience with the Pope. I had never been to one, nor did I have any idea what went on so I will describe it for you. Essentially it is an audience. We see and hear him, he sees and hears us. The atmosphere took me, and those who were singularly ignorant, by surprise. It was more carnival than any thing else. But let us take this step by step. First you have to get tickets, ordering them by fax usually, to get into the reserved area. Anyone can go but if they don’t get tickets, they are back in the Piazza. Then you have to arrive early to go through security – just like an airport – and stay strictly in your group and take your assigned place. Marcia ordered ours, as the Benedictine Renewal Group, and we were right up the top to the side of the Pope, five rows back – excellent. Different groups come in costume, and one made their presence felt setting the tone for the day. Dressed in medieval costume, a Palermo band, and flag waving group entered the Piazza playing and flamboyantly throwing their flags and went to their assigned place. (Just the type of display one expects at the town festival.) Next the them was a group from another town that had just walked in. Not to be outdone they too played and flag waved. Palermo responded. As the stakes grew higher, a group in medieval costume did a dance display, then it was back to the battle of the bands and flags, each trying to better the other till in the end BOTH groups played and threw flags at the same time. Thank God their tempos did not clash. After and hour and a quarter, I think a message was sent down from the offices above – shut up!
Back up on the podium near us, the gifts to the Pope were displayed. Pride of place went to a cage of chooks – right next to a stature of Our Lady of Fatima – no, they were not unrelated. Down in the crowds were five banners from the Chook Breeders of some part of Italy, two banners displaying chooks on either side of a banner of Our Lady of Fatima. They were rare breeds and initially I thought we were going to have a cock fight display. We were told that they were going to be sent out to Castelgondolfo, the Pope’s residence outside of Rome where some farming is done. There were other presents like religious statues etc but as for me the chooks took pride of place.
Also up on the podium in a special section were a number of wedding parties, all in their finery, having come for a special blessing.
Finally all groups in, all presents on display, and four of the Swiss guards in full plumage marched out and took up position of either side of the podium. Then the Pope Benedict entered the Piazza, was clapped and cheered but not with any hysteria. I think this shift is part of the personal style of this man. I had heard enough about excessive emotionalism in the past to make me dread going to this event. He took his time going through the crowds blessing the people but then this is what they had come for. When he arrived up on the podium he sat under the canopy with two other clerics. His skin colour was not good but he walked vigorously and easily - better than I would expect for a man his age.
The audience officially opened with a prayer, then a short piece from the Gospel of Matthew was read first in Italian, then French, Spanish, English, German and a East European language. The Pope then gave a homily in Italian. Then a precis of the homily was translated in each of the above language. After each precis, the people were welcomed in that language and the groups presented to the Pope according to their language group. Countries mentioned included, Australia (Lia and I were your representative) Venuzuela, Thailand, Korea etc As each group was called, they stood, clapped, cheered and some broke into song. Most groups were parish groups but there were all others sorts. And what a range there was. Near us were a group of children in colourful, dramatic costume (I thought they might be Roma – gyspy) who broke into a delightful ‘kiddies’ song. On the other side of the podium, a Spanish group sang a formal religious song. While everything was kept moving, no group was cut off or hurried along. I and others in our group found this the most moving part of the ceremony. The unity and the diversity of the Church was very strong, along with its humanity – as along the front on the piazza were the sick in wheelchairs.
At the end of the audience, the Pope gave a blessing for all of us, all our families and friends, all whom we love and all the sick we know. So count yourself in. And then the service was concluded with the singing of the Our Father. Then he had short meetings with special representatives, first some bishops, then people in the front row on the podium, then another tour along the front of the piazza, then past the sick who had been moved into the shade then the end. All in all it took two hours.
This was a day stressing the strength of Thank You and Please. As we were leaving the piazza we came across the Palermo band having their photo taken. I went over to one of their leaders and thanked them for their display. He promptly called out to the others “Per la signora!” (for the lady) and the whole group formed and put on a display again. Pride of their troop was a young girl. You can imagine the crowd that gathered.
Later Cecilia (from Mexico) and Lia (a Good Sam) and I went to St Maria sopra Minerva so see the tomb of Catherine of Siena – and this glorious gothic church – the only one in Rome. While we found out that the room that Catherine died in was behind the sacristy. When we went there is was definitely closed behind a grill. Just then a Dominican nun came up, so I asked “Please, may we go in?” Of course was the reply.
One thing to add. The Swiss guards. How polite. We have had some dealings going to the scavi, to this audience and have found them so polite. They have a custom that when someone, anyone comes to ask them something, they give a salute. It really does set a tone
for the meeting. And given the demands made on them by pushy tourists, I’d canonise them while still alive.

On Friday we went to St John Lateran, the real parish church of Rome. (St Peter’s only became the home of the pope at the end of the 14th century after the pope returned from Avignon – to this day it still isn’t the main church of Rome). Of all the major churches that I’ve seen, this has a sense of spaciousness – and the baroque art isn’t totally overblown. Dan McCarthy a monk from Atchinson was our guide. Earlier in the program he gave lectures on the structure and theology of the early churches and then guided us through Santa Sabina and the St Maria Cosmedin pointing how their particular features. He is an excellent teacher, knows his material, and is able to present it clearly, simply and in a manner that makes people feel easy about offering their insights and asking questions. Now he introduced us to St John Lateran, and its baptistery, and San Clemente. The baptistery was especially interesting, with is size and spaciousness, originally made for total immersion. For a long time, this was THE baptistery of Rome, just as the baptistery of Florence has until very recent times, been the only baptistery of Florence. I’m hoping that next week when I go to Florence, that I might see a baptism there if I pick the right time. It would be good to see one of the great art works being used for what was originally intended.
At San Clemente, we were able to go down into the ruins of the 4th century, then Romanesque basilicas underneath the church. There was also a pagan mythrium and school excavated down there – eerie. After our ‘picnic lunch’ outside the church three of us went back to St John Lateran and spent time in the glorious cloister and viewing old vestments. This was of especially interest to me, as later on in the program I want to discuss the art work that was done by nuns in their embroidery. One of the copes on display here was totally covered with scenes from the bible. The cope came from Florence at the time that the nuns of La Murate was renowned for their embroidery.
After that two of us, Julie Marie from the States and a couple of years younger than me, went shopping. With similar senses of humour we had one of the best times I’ve had in Rome. We finally found the shop in Rome that sells tapestries and trying to get Mum a tapestry, I tried out my Italian. Just as well my accent doesn’t affect the canvas or the design would be a bizarre abstract – the most hilarious part was the delightful shop woman trying to get me pronounce ‘euro’ correctly. Julie was crying. Then we went on to a shop for Julie to buy a tie and shared the tiny shop space with two ‘undercover’ security men whose body language screamed to the heavens who they were, along with the bulging guns they carried under their suits. Testosterone flooded the space and the shop woman there wanted us out as we were cramping her flirting style. Julie wasn’t moving till she had her tie and the men were unimpressed that we were unimpressed with them. Eventually the woman made the quickest transaction of her life, and just as we were leaving a couple walked in, who couldn’t get in till we got out – ah so much for that flirtation. After that we looked at shops that we could enjoy if we weren’t nuns. It was fun just looking at so many beautiful objects. Not being able to buy was almost an advantage and we could take pleasure in everything without being committed to anything. The rest of the evening was just as much fun just mooching around and enjoying the atmosphere of Rome and our own ignorance!
Yesterday and today have been reflection days and tomorrow Sr Aquinata’s protégé – a German Sr Manuela Scheiba gives talks on Obedience in RB.
Luckily for me the weather continues cool. As I mentioned I bought few clothes and on the rare occasions I’ve been able to look at clothes, nothing fits. Even the plump Italians are smaller than a plump Australian.

Norcia

Yesterday we went to Norcia, the birthplace of Benedict and Scholastica. Norcia is delightful. Situated in Umbria, it gives the feel of a town, loved and lived in. If there is one place I would recommend for anyone wanting to experience the best of Italy in a short time it is here. There are other things to do in Norcia besides visiting religious sites – hang-gliding, rafting, climbing, walking and cooking classes. It is the one of the few completely walled town left in Italy. After Rome the first things that strikes is its cleanliness. The people take a pride in the place. At one stage, a group of us walking along tired to find a piece of rubbish – to no avail.
While Norcia is in a valley, the trip up winds through step valleys, with mountains rearing over one’s head. For kilometres along and sometimes a hundred meters above, the rock face is sheeted with wire mesh to hold back falling rocks and then in some places there are a horizontal barriers. One also goes through a number of tunnels. For Benedict in the 6th century going to Rome to study must have been a major trip.
The town on the way emerge out of the rock. This picture from Sant’Eutizio, 15 kms form Norcia, gives you an idea of how building emerge out of the rock. One morphs into another. This monastery was delightful – with one monk, an American, who is pastor of the parish. This parish has been formed from 17 ‘parishes’. Each of these parish groups is very small and if they don’t have Eucharist in their church, they don’t go as they have no tradition of travelling to church on Sundays. He spread thin.
I forgot to mention the other pastime in Norcia – buying boar meat! These delicatessens are everywhere. One can only presume that they cater mainly to visitor or the Norcians have the highest cholesterol levels in the world. The other big draw in truffles – a local truffle collector.
We had pranzo – lunch with the local Benedictine nuns who produce a simple but wonderful meal. Pasta perfect. Their cook has been to the cooking classes. These nuns run a guest house to earn their living. We say one of the rooms this time. Simple but clean and comfortable. They are currently renovating an old Franciscan monastery to extend the guest area. It has been neglected since Napoleon expelled the friars in 1810. The nun had no idea of how old it was. The time our at St Scholastica’s was special. This site was probably the family villa 3 kms out of town and tradition has that Scholastica with other women, lived a monastic life here before she moved to Monte Cassino to be nearer Benedict later in life. There are beautiful frescoes in this old neglected church but it is the atmosphere of the area that is the most enchanting. Open skies, a view across to the valley. There is a sense of lightness and quiet in the area – and I can well imagine someone shifting here to rest in God and in nature.

The last two days we have had lectures from Sr Aquinata Broeckmann, one of the Tutzing Benedictine Sisters. She is the best scholar on the Rule of Benedict in the world and a superb teacher. In the midst of all her knowledge, she is able to help people recognise their own experience and knowledge of the Rule. Truly she is my pin-up scholar. She has had problems with the microphone ringing in the strangest ways and has turned the trouble into a silent joke. Imagine Mr Bean giving an academic lecture!
Last night we went to Vespers (evening prayer) with the community of Sant’Egidio. This lay Christian community is now in 70 countries and is a group that supports each other in prayer and Christian service, especially of the poor. A few years ago they were in serious contention for the Nobel Peace prize for work they had done working as facilitators in war torn areas of our world. They met each evening in the church of Santa Maria in Trastevare Last night the church was largely full, with young to middle aged professionals, from various races. A large group of very professional Africans arrived just after prayer had started. They were the first lady of the Ivory Coast and her entourage, who had come because yesterday was the feast of St Charles Lwanga and companions. Their chant was lovely, very vigourous, with very good part singing. There were head sets through which one could follow the homily in a variety of languages – very professional.
The night for us was so pleasant, almost balmy... the first mosquitoes are emerging.
Tonight I am going with a group of the Casa sisters to pray the Rosary on Vatican Radio. This will be in Latin.. I don’t think I will be able to send you “Cheerio” calls but you know that you will be in my heart and in my prayer.
Tomorrow we go to Norcia. Last year this was a wonderful day, except for the bus breaking down and catching fire, after it had baptised us with the water leaking from the broken air-con system. It seems that bus break downs are a tradition on this course but I hope we break that custom this year. We had too, too short a time in Norcia last year. It was delightful, clean (what a relief after Rome) friendly and full on interest. I can hardly wait for the bus tomorrow at 6 am

My apologies for not having written for awhile. Largely it was due to teaching last week. I had three days, on three different topics, all material I hadn’t taught before. I had prepared it largely but needed to do the final shape in relation to this audience. All went well so my thanks to you for your prayer. I have been very conscious of the support I have had from you in your different ways.
What was very heartening for me was the especial interest in the monastic women. I have another day to give on this (oh that I had another week) and this group seem very keen for it.
This group is quite diverse. Over 30 years age range, coming from Mexico, Canada, Australia and mostly the United States. There is a range in educational background but a common desire to renew their Benedictine roots – hence the keen interest in the monastic women. They are very pleasant people and, any of you who had been teachers would die for such a group. Interested, alert, asking good questions, encouraging me to write a book on the subject…need I go on.
The challenge of these lectures was my accent and soft voice! I had to use a microphone for them to hear and understand. I’m learning to speak slower with clearly enunciated consonants.
So bringing you up to date I will backtrack a little over the last weeks over the next few days, with no apparent order.
Early in the week I spent a day on the town tour buses, going around the city trying to get its shape in my head, lest I do what I did to Joan in Singapore, led her in the wrong direction for an hour in the heat. I’m glad I did the trip. It did get the shape of the town in my head, switched my inner compass from southern hemisphere to northern, gave me some basic information and a better idea of the transport – all of which have proved useful in the excursions of the past week.
The highlight of last week was the tour of the scavi – excavations under St Peter’s basilica. These have only been opened since 2000 and are well worth the visit. From about 1930 onwards the necropolis under St Peter’s was excavated by archaeologists with the hope of discovering the bones of St Peter. Many of them hold that some of the bones have been found, but the official sign states that ‘we believe’. The site uses the best of 21st century technology to show part of life of the Roman Empire from the 1st-4th centuries. The tour guides are seminarians who know their material well and can adapt their input to the interests of a group. Of all the things I have seen in Rome, this tour is the one I would recommend to anyone, whether they were a Christian believer or not. It was the best presented piece of history in the city.
Of course, for me as a believer, it had great emotional and spiritual impact. The death of the martyrs expresses something central to our faith and to be underground, looking at the buildings and artefacts that surrounded such deaths was very moving.
For those who may be interested, access to such tours has to be booked months ahead, and in writing. numbers are limited due to the impact of heat and humidity from people going through and the cost is 10 euros – but well worth the money and inconvenience of booking.
How am I bearing up – I nearly ripped my ring finger off going down into the scavi under San Crisogono, having caught my ring in the door jamb, back here I tripped and fell on both knees and shins and sprained a toe, In Rome I have tortured my ankles on the cobblestones of Rome. I’m doing fine. The ring needs mending but I’m grateful, if I hadn’t jerked back I think I would be recovering from microsurgery at the moment. I thought of Dad as it happened. It was all he ever said about rings getting caught.
Except for a day or two of mid 30s the weather has been cool and lovely.

Trinity Sunday

Yesterday, ie Sunday, was not only my feastday but Marcia’s as well so we went to an English Mass in a church next to the church of St Ignatius. Yes churches next to churches! I wonder how many there were before Napoleon confiscated much of the church property in the early 1800’s Not all was given back to the religious orders that were robbed. But as Michael K and I agreed would they want it all back. There is a point when history is no longer asset but liability.
We went to this Mass as monk friends of Marcia’s were meeting us there. Dan McCarthy is from Kansas, James Leachman from Ealing in London. After we went to a restaurant were they met every Sunday with friends. I met up with a number of Australians. If anyone is in contact with Dr Grove, tell him that Robert Borg from Broken Bay diocese was reminiscing about him in Rome. He would love that.
I was glad to go to an English Mass as Morning Prayer yesterday was in Latin and Italian and by the end of the Office my head was hurting. It was so good to go and pray and be carried by custom and to sing hymns one could put one’s whole self into.
Afterwards Marcia and I checked out the route o Sant’Ambrogio that Michael had shown me and she was pleased how direct it was. Today I’m going on the tour buses that go around Rome to try and get the shape of the city in my head and to hear some of the history as we drive by the sights. These buses have a flat fee for 48 hours so I can go round and round as long as I like.
How am I bearing up? Sleepwise I have had little effect from jet lag and from the first night was back into my own sleep pattern. But my ankles tell a different story. I find the walking on cobblestones, which pave all on inner Rome, difficult. Every step is on an uneven surface so the muscles are doing much more work than normal. And given my propensity to fall over, the back of my mind is always checking that my foot is down before I transfer my weight. I trust I will adjust. At least today, I’ll be on the bus.

Saturday

Yesterday( ie Saturday) I went into Rome to met up with Michael Kelly (a Sydney monk recently elected Abbot General of his congregation) and Fr Simon Tonini, a former abbot. But before meeting them I wandered around for awhile, principally down the Via del Corso. Mmmm it made CQ look good. I didn’t look up the guide book much just moosied along getting the feel. It is obviously a shopping district but didn’t appeal at all. On later reflection I would say it was a shopping district catering the tourist wanting stylish goods. Later in the day, when Michael and I wandered around the small back streets and there was a very different feel. Now there were shops in which I could do serious damage to the community budget. A paper/card shop comes to mind, with a delightful packet of 6 small gift tags for a mere $35 dollars – but wait for it there were envelopes enclosed. I didn’t indulge but then I can make cards just as nice but I’ll miss the envelopes.
But I am getting ahead of myself. Michael met me at Piazza Venezia and we went to San Stefano for Midday Prayer and lunch. The building there is various ages and the rooms, different shapes. One room with four walls did not have a right angle in any corner – what people could do when they made their building materials on site. The malleability is enormous. The Sylvestrines must have a tradition of employing good cooks. The simple meal was simply the best. Almost rendered me speechless. After lunch with the community, Michael, Simon and I sat down with coffee and brandy and yarned and laughed and solved all the problems of the monastic world. Simon is simply amazing. He is 87, looks about 70, but his heart and his head and his humour would be the envy of one 50 years younger. Conversations go everywhere with passion and humour. He belongs in my list of people that I want to be like when I grow old.
After this Michael and I went wandering, first to Santa Maria sopra Minerva – the only Gothic church in Rome. Of the major churches this one has appealed to me most and I think I will go back there, if for no other reason than to see the tomb of Catherine of Siena. It looks like it will repay time spent as there is such a variety of spaces and artworks within, all explained with Dominican panache. Then we did the Parthenon, such a milling mass of people and for the numbers it was not noisy, so obviously the high domed roof allows the sound to ascend and go out the oculus (the hole in the top). Now this is a church we could have in Yeppoon but I doubt it would be cyclone proof.
Moving in and out of these churches, it has struck me what a contrast there is between inside and outside. None of the old churches have windows so their ‘views’ are the pictures on the wall. But the inside is also with subdued light. Coming out of Minerva, I felt like we were coming out of darkness into light, but not the darkness of absence but the darkness of interiority, when one enters into oneself in reflection and lets the spirit play in silence and quiet.
In our wanderings we came on Campo de’ Fiori after the end of market session, and I must go back there. I like the Yeppoon market and I think I’ll like this very much. Then more wandering about, checked where San’Ambrogio was so that we don’t get lost when we bring the group here and then home via tram and train.
Something was wrong with the trains, I gathered that much, but as my train went through Aurelia, my stop at 140 kmh I realised that the timetable had changed. Still I got to see the countryside out of Rome. Where we are here is in the green belt of Rome, the outside edge of the city. This picture gives you some idea of where I am staying. This is the garden at the front in early morning.

Dear all, finally settled in the guest house had a few days rest and work and now ready to keep up to date with you.

The flights went well. From Brisbane to HogKong I had a personable American who lives in Cairns with his yoga teaching wife. He himself earns his living giving financial advice and doing stints working for NGO's, frequently in Africa, an interesting combination.

On the flight from Hong Kong to Rome, I had a Prague born man, who came to ba a resident of China, via the USA. He currently has a leather tannery and goods factory. With just a little prompting he got onto the relative merits of leather hides from different parts of the world. Hides from Australia are better than hides from Brazil - they can cut around the barbwire marks but not the numerous pockets from tick bites. Goat hide from Indonesia is better that hides from Spain, etc. Then he really warmed to the subject.

I had to wait about an about 1 1/2 hours for the Marcia and Karen to arrive and then Rebecca an Amercian Benedictine who is librarian at the North American College in Rome, met us and brought us to here (which I will call the Casa - for this blog). That is luxury to be met after a long flight by someone you know and who knows where to go.

The Casa sisters were delighted with our arrival. Obviously this Renewal Program is one of the highlights of their year. On the practical level it means that they don't have changeover of guests for over five weeks, but more importantly, they enjoy the stimulation of Benedictines from differing traditions - just as the ones coming enjoy the international orietnation of these Tutzing sister. A Korean, Sr Celestine worked this for our arrival.

She is going to show me how she does it when the rest of the Program sisters arrive.

The community at present consists of Koreans, Philippinas, Germans, a Kenyan, a Nambibian, a Brazilian, etc. Some are away doing visitations in Africa or South America or home for medical check-ups. Obviously they prefer home to here for medical matters.

Parts of the Mass can be in a number of languages but so far we have had only Italian, Latin and English. I really hope we have a little Swahili before I go.

I'm settling in well except for

the security! These are the keys we had done in the guest house. The one for the bedroom, turn twice, the front door, turn once, the grill (heavy - wrought iron) turn four times, the front gate, turn only once. And this seems to be standard for all around here, and I presume Rome. High walls, grills, TV surveilance. And it seems that it is necessary if you want to keep your things. Personal safety is not the issue, I believe, it seems that the thief will not hurt you. But I do wonder about a society that is so deeply ingrained with suspicion and with such an attitude to other people's proerty. As you will remember from last year Lesvos was the polar opposite of this, theft was virtually unknown on the island, in spite of the large tourist numbers.

So much for this morning. Today, I'm meeting Michael Kelly (for htose who do not know him he is an Australian monk who as last year elected Abbot General of his Benedictine congregation - the Silvestrines). We will have lunch at San Stefano. Fr Simon Tonini is there - delight - and then Michael is going to 'do' part of Rome with me.

Off to Lauds now